Michelin gab im Musik- und Kongresszentrum Straßburg die neuen Sterne-Restaurants 2023 in Frankreich bekannt.
Zu den Preisträgern gehört das neue Drei-Sterne-Restaurant La Marine, vier neue zwei Sterne-Restaurants, 39 weitere Restaurants mit einem Stern und acht weitere Green Star Restaurants.
Insgesamt umfasst die Restaurantauswahl des MICHELIN Guide France nun 630 Sterne-Restaurants: 29 Drei-Sterne-Restaurants, 75 Zwei-Sterne-Restaurants und 526 Restaurants mit einem Stern in ganz Frankreich.
“Thanks to Alexandre and Céline Couillon and their creation of a gastronomic destination, the definition of a Three MICHELIN Star restaurant is felt more vibrantly now than ever. La Marine ‘is worth the detour’ because it sweeps us away to the island of Noirmoutier and leaves us forever changed. The restaurant team had already been highlighted with the MICHELIN Green Star in recognition of its remarkable eco-responsible commitment, and the restaurant team plays out a resplendent symphony”, sagte Gwendal Poullennec, International Director des MICHELIN Guides.
Versteckt an der Spitze der Insel Noirmoutier, in der Bucht von L’Herbaudière, behauptet sich La Marine als eines der besten Restaurants in Frankreich. In einer authentischen Erkundung des Ozeans bringt die Küche von Küchenchef Alexandre Couillon etwas Einzigartiges in die französische Gastronomielandschaft.
Vier weitere Restaurants mit zwei MICHELIN-Sternen wurden ausgezeichnet: Das Restaurant Cyril Attrazic in Aumont-Aubrac, das Château de Beaulieu, das L’Amaryllis und das L’Auberge de Montmin.
Bereits letzte Woche gab der Michelin bekannt, dass Guy Savoy seinen 3. Stern verloren hat.
Spitzenkoch Guy Savoy wurde aus der Riege der Topköche verbannt. Statt der Höchstbewertung von drei Sternen bleiben seinem Restaurant «Guy Savoy» in Paris nun lediglich zwei prestigereiche Sterne.
«Die Nachricht ist noch zu frisch und Guy Savoy will sich im Moment nicht äußern», sagte eine Sprecherin des Stargastronomen. «Wir sind sehr enttäuscht und schockiert.» Das Team des Etablissements im Herzen von Paris habe zahlreiche Unterstützungsbekundungen erhalten.
Im vergangenen Jahr schrieb der berühmte Restaurantführer über das «Guy Savoy» noch von einer «wie ein Fest gelebten Gastronomie, einer erneuerten Hommage an die französische Küche». Der Gastronomieguide «La Liste» zählt das «Guy Savoy» zu einem der drei besten Restaurants weltweit.
Das gleiche Schicksal wie Savoy ereilte auch das nach seinem Starkoch benannte «Christopher Coutanceau» in La Rochelle, dem der Guide Michelin vergangenes Jahr noch eine «bewundernswerte» Küche nachsagte.
Dass Kritikerinnen und Kritiker Savoy und Coutanceau von ihren Thronen gestoßen haben, hat in Frankreich für Aufregung gesorgt. Auch Alexandre Couillon, der am Montag mit seinem Restaurant «La Marine» auf der kleinen Atlantikinsel Île de Noirmoutier unweit von Nantes in die Topliga der Drei-Sterne-Restaurants aufstieg, sagte bei der Zeremonie: «Ich denke tief bewegt an Guy und Christopher.»
Insgesamt stufte die Gastronomiebibel des Reifenherstellers Michelin in Frankreich in diesem Jahr fünf Restaurants herab, 20 verloren gar vollständig eine Sternebewertung. Berichten zufolge hatte es 2021 und 2022 keine Herabstufungen gegeben. In den Jahren davor hatte die vereinzelte Wegnahme des dritten Michelin-Sterns ebenfalls für Aufsehen gesorgt. Der Verantwortliche Gwendal Poullennec, dessen Tester vor Spitzenetablissements keinen Halt machen, sagte einmal der Zeitung «Le Monde», die Sterne gehörten nicht den Spitzenköchen. «Michelin-Sterne werden nicht vererbt, man muss sie sich verdienen.» dpa
39 restaurants are newly highlighted with One MICHELIN Star:
The Ile-de-France is the leader of the French regions with the most newlyrecognized restaurants this year, adding seven new Michelin-Star Restaurants to its credit. Among them, many are managed by young upand-coming heads-of-restaurant: Anona (Paris 17th arrondissement), run by Thibaut Spiwack; Villa9Trois (Montreuil), overseen by the Breton Camille Saint-M'Leux; and the eponymous restaurant of Malory Gabsi (Paris 17th arrondissement).
Omar Dhiab (Paris 1st arrondissement) and Terumitsu Saito, of the restaurant Ōrtensia (Paris 16th arrondissement), add a touch of exoticism – respectively Egyptian and Japanese – to the gastronomic landscape of Paris. In the 8th arrondissement, Martino Ruggieri demonstrates noteworthy cookery at his Maison Ruggieri, while Pascal Barbot receives his first MICHELIN Star directly upon the reopening of his restaurant Astrance in the 16th arrondissement.
In Nouvelle-Aquitaine, as well as in the Pays de la Loire, five new establishments are also recognized. In Bordeaux (33), Ressources not only offers the excellent cuisine of Tanguy Laviale, but also an impressive wine list offering more than 700 options. In Mont-de-Marsan (40), at La Table Mirasol, Phillipe Lagraula skillfully mingles his Landes terroir with exotic – particularly Peruvian – touches, a reference to the native country of his wife, Daniela, who supervises the service.
In Puymoyen, Charente (16), Aumì is a newly-opened establishment run by a talented young couple. Mickaël Clautour (in the kitchen) and Laura Legeay (in the dining room) offering up a single uncompromisingly excellent multi-course meal which changes each month. In La Roche-sur-Yon (85), at the Les Reflets restaurant, the modern cuisine of the Welsh chef Nathan Cretney – who has previously been awarded a Bib Gourmand – rises to a new level with One MICHELIN Star. At Les Cadets in Nantes (44), the Bernabé brothers – Charles the chef and Tristan the sommelier – join their associate Lucas Badé to propose a precise, seasonal, local selection that offers excellent value for money. In Occitania and in Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, the Guide’s inspectors were won over by four additional establishments respectively.
La Villa Pinewood, in Payren-Augmentel (81), is something of a unicorn among the selection. In this oeno-gastronomic inn run by the couple Thomas and Anne Cabrol, guests discover creative, largely plant-based cookery as they are immersed in the establishment’s sustainable commitments. For example, throughout the meal, images of the farmers and gatherers who provide the ingredients stream past on a screen. In Nîmes (30), the Beninese-born, self-taught chef Georgiana Viou also receives One MICHELIN Star for her restaurant, Rouge, where she concocts a fusion of Mediterranean and African flavors. In Lyon (69), La Mutinerie – run by Chef Nicolas Seibold – stands out for its modern, creative and plant-based cuisine.
Three new restaurants in each of the following regions are also highlighted with a MICHELIN Star: Hauts-de-France, Centre-Val de Loire, ProvenceAlpes-Côte d’Azur, and Grand Est. The MICHELIN Guide inspectors were particularly impressed by the atypical cookery – locally sourced yet mingled with Asian flavors – of Félix and Nidta Robert’s restaurant Arborescence. The experience unfolds within a former textile castle in Croix (59), and it reflects the globe-trotting characters of the duo. One MICHELIN Star is restored to the chef-and-pastry-chef couple Diego Delbecq and Camille Pailleau after they successfully relocated their restaurant Rozó to a former printing office in Marcq-en-Barœul (59). In Guainville (28), Chef Romain Meder has opened the restaurant Les Chemins - Domaine de Primard in the former home of Catherine Deneuve. His meals are inspired by Naturalité, a book that he assisted Alain Ducasse in developing at Plaza Athénée.
In Loches (37), Clément Dumont (in the kitchen) and Océane Guillot (in the dining room) thrill guests with dishes that showcase the Loire terroir and feature vegetables from their own garden. In La Ciotat (13), the chef Yuichiro and the pastry chef Mika Shimatani form a Japanese couple who once worked under Alexandre Mazzia, among other prestigious chefs. At Couleurs de Shimatani, they offer an immersion in Mediterranean cookery enhanced by Japanese touches. They alone run the restaurant, which exclusively welcomes guests for lunch. In Strasbourg (67), another entrepreneurial and gastronomic success is the restaurant de:ja, recently opened by Chef David Degoursy and his wife, the pastry chef Jeanne Satori. The two self-taught chefs – the former a literary graduate, the latter a sustainable development alumnus – have developed a particularly creative, eco-responsible, conceptual approach. For example, each menu is named after one of the four harvesting methods that humans have used throughout history – “Cueillette” (Gathering), “Vendange” (Grape Harvest), “Moisson” (Crop Harvest) and “Fenaison” (Haymaking) –, and each celebrates the “living produce” which the chefs source locally.
In Brittany, two new restaurants are also highlighted: La Gouesnière - Maison Tirel-Guérin at La Gouesnière (35) and La Table des Pères - Domaine du Château des Pères in Piré-Chancé (35). The former is a traditional restaurant that is already well-known regionally. Its MICHELIN Star is being restored following the arrival of Chef Thomas Vonderscher. The latter is located in an atypical estate featuring a classical 18th-century castle, a 19th-century water tower, a futuristic hotel made up of bubbleshaped rooms mounted on the branches of a metal structure... and a circular restaurant with a grass-covered roof like a UFO that has landed in the middle of a vegetable garden. There, Chef Jérôme Jouadé delivers exquisite cuisine, liberally inspired by Brittany and home-grown produce.
